A Detailed Guide to Building a Foundational Wardrobe for F/W24: Tops
It's April which means you've got a few months to get everything sorted before the fall comes around. Let's get started now with a mix of $ / $$ / $$$ recs.
‘Mariano, isn’t fall still really far away?’ — No, it’s not.
It’s the end of April, which means it’s essentially May. All of May culminates in Memorial Day Weekend, which then leads into June and June & July always blend into one weird long blur. By the time August comes around, you’re burnt out on the heat and you cannot wait for September to come around. The Sept/Oct/Nov months are all more of a ‘season’ or a semester than they are three separate months. And if we don’t prepare you NOW, you’re going to be caught lacking come the Fall — NOT ON MY WATCH. We might not be able to save this summer of poor fits, but we can at least prep you to walk into the colder months looking good and confident.
If my memory serves me right, back in the days of Four Pins (RIP) there was a segment called…errrrr…Sliding Scale (?) where they’re choose a topic like ‘White Sneakers’ and then give you 5 options in different price ranges for you to choose from. This was really cool at the time since a lot of us were just wandering into menswear and it allowed us to see what was out there, and more importantly, what we could afford. This series is going to re-up that idea by offering you three options in different categories, going from $ to $$$ in the hopes that we can cover all the financial bases.
One preface I’d like to mention before we jump into tops is that none of my options will consider the fact that you can thrift a lot of these things yourself, or scour eBay or Poshmark or Grailed. Although a great option for many of us, the biggest issue with second-hand sites is that you don’t always have the ease of sizing / availability at hand. These posts will try to offer options that will be in stock, with consistent size charts, that won’t have sweat stains on them. In some cases (like when we get to jeans) you might find that the best options might actually be thrifted, but I can’t guarantee that you’ll find exactly what you’re looking for while digging through bins. Regardless, if you’re willing, go and see what options you can find on those sites; I am typing this as I wear $500 engineer boots that I lowballed some dude on Poshmark for $50…so…we are not above thrifting here at Threadspace.
Second preface is that I’m offering some classic versions of these things. There are some truly insane, creative, weird offerings for t-shirts and hoodies but you will not find those here. This series is for basics that can build you a foundational wardrobe; those other pieces come into play down the road once you’ve amassed a good starting point. No flashy designs. No visible logos. No (real) colors. You can buy these offerings at 20 and they’ll still look good as you turn 30. Longevity is the name of the game here.
Third preface — THIS IS A LONG POST. I’ve added dividers so you can skip ahead to whatever items you need some recs for. I’ve dumped my heart and soul into this. Appreciate it or else.
Ok. Let’s begin.
Tops: I wanted to start here because these tend to be more accessible price-wise than outerwear / pants / shoes. You also might be able to buy things now that you’ll wear into the summer. Like always, we have links for EVERYTHING in the write-ups, just click on the name and it’ll send you to the respective site.
T-shirts: I think the foundation for every good wardrobe is good t-shirts. And you don’t even need a lot of them, just a few good black ones and a few good white ones; both of those will be versatile enough to wear with everything else over the coming weeks. (Every t-shirt I recommend has a black counterpart but for the sake of space I’ll only be linking the white versions)
My $ choice is def the Hanes Ultimate T-Shirt that is currently on sale where you’ll get 6 shirts for $24 (which feels illegal); regular price of $42 for a six-pack is still incredible. They aren’t anything to write home about, but they’ll last and they’re affordable.
If you’re looking to upgrade a little bit, I’ve heard nothing but amazing things about the Buck Mason Pima T-shirt that goes for $45. This is their classic version and it seems to look great on literally every single human that tries them on. Alternatively for a bit more, Lady White Co’s Our Shirt 2-Pack gets you two t-shirts for $110, or $55 each. What I love about both Buck Mason and Lady White Co is that they offer different kinds of t-shirts, whether classic or oversized or cropped; it’s worth looking through their full sites respectively to see what you might like. My personal rec is these two though, a classic fit won’t ever age out, meanwhile I’m sure a lot of us are regretting having cropped so many good shirts over Covid that we’re too embarrassed to wear now. Keep it simple.
The top end pick here is…well, it’s a lot. It’s the $$$ contender. Chances are you’ve heard of this t-shirt already due to its fame in FX’s The Bear. It’s the Merz B. Schwanen 2-Thread Heavyweight T-shirt for $110. That’s $110 for ONE t-shirt. Is this shirt worth buying two of the shirts?Is it worth buying instead of getting 4 of the six−packs from Hanes? WHO KNOWS! ONLY YOU CAN MAKE THAT DECISION FOR YOURSELF. But I will say…I′ve felt these and they are magical. They also fit weird, lol. Please do your research before dropping $$$ on one singular t-shirt, ok. And also, you will not look at good as Jeremy Allen White. Sorry.
Oxfords: We’ll save the white button ups for when we talk suiting; for now make sure you invest in an Oxford or two, preferably in white, and if you want variety get a white one and a light blue one. The Oxford is like the dress shirt’s beefier cousin; a little heavier, a little more structured, and much easier to wear day-to-day.
My $ choice comes from the Gap, specifically their Classic Oxford. I’m biased with this choice as I own 4 of these in the exact same size and fit. (I always opt for classic, but they have Slim and Tall as well) They’re currently on sale so they might be worth copping, but even at $60 regular price you’ll get your money’s worth on this shirt.
J Crew’s Broken-in Oxford is a solid $$ contender at $90, and like the Gap’s version, it comes in different fits: Classic, Slim, Slim Untucked (what does that even mean?), Tall, Relaxed, Giant. Again — I’d recommend a Classic fit, but I also think Relaxed and even Giant could be a lot of fun. Their brother store Madewell also has an offering in the Vintage-Worn Oxford that is equally priced at $90. This is essentially the same shirt as the J Crew one, albeit a little more…casual? A little more vintage looking? Still a great choice.
The legendary $$$ offering comes from no other than Wythe with their Oxford Cloth Button Up that rings up for $160. That’s a LOT of money, but fun fact — that’s how Wythe got its start, with this shirt via a Kickstarter. It’s meant to fit like the classic oxfords that you’d see in ads from the 60’s. Classic, timeless, and essentially an heirloom, if you plan to keep a shirt around for a decade, this is your choice.
Crewneck sweater: These are usually best worn in grey, and slightly oversized. Imagine your dad in the 90’s — that’s the look. The $ contender is def the McCarren Midweight Crewneck from Madewell Men’s. Sure, $98 isn’t cheap but we’re also trying to make decisions to invest in clothing that will last a long time, and this is about the entry-point for a crewneck that can age with you. Pick up a grey one, and maybe a black one, and thank Aaron Levine for using his gifts at Madewell for good.
Unsurprisingly, the $$ options also have Aaron’s hands in them. If the first option is his entry point into crewnecks, this is his next upgrade: the Trumbull Vintage Crewneck that he’s making in-house with Huckberry. Is this $40 better than the Madewell one? I think so, and so do a dozen of menswear nerds on Tik Tok. Personally, I’d maybe save up a few extra bucks and splurge on the Best Crewneck from Brut. It’s $160, sure. But (1) the name is so fitting and (2) Brut has the best vintage-inspired sweats in the industry, all based off actual vintage garments in their archive and (3) you immediately look like you’ve worn it for ages, essentially making you much cooler than the guy next to you.
…let’s talk $$$, yeah? I think Lady White Co’s Varsity Sweater is perfect. It’s also $220. But $220 for perfection seems cheap, no? Anyways, LWC is notoriously good with their crewnecks & hoodies; I think they make the best crewnecks and hoodies out there and I’ll die on that hill. But if you want to spend even a little more, like the +$$$ option, Our Legacy’sPerfect Sweatshirt one-ups Brut with its name. It’s also $320. I know that’s an insane price, but I think if you are looking to support a legacy menswear company, this is the company to support.
Hoodie: You have to make a decision at this point: “Will I be a pullover hoodie guy for a zip-up hoodie guy?” — If you chose zip-up, skip to the next section. That’s the wrong choice. For the pullover people, let’s start with the $ option, which unsurprisingly is The McCarren Midweight Hoodie from Madewell. For $90 it’s hard to beat, and again, blessed by the boss himself. I think similar to the crewneck, it’s going to be your friend for the cold summer nights / mornings, well into the winter as a layering piece. Opt for black.
Entering the $$ category, J Crew’s Heritage Hoodie is so, so, so beefy. 14 oz doesn’t seem like much, but this hoodie is going to be best saved for chillier nights, not summer nights. The cut is really classic, and although it runs a little long, you can tuck the waist upwards for a cropped look. If you want an actual cropped looked with some extra wiggle room, Bare Knuckles just dropped their Basics program and the Basic Hoodie looks excellent. It’s not anything groundbreaking, but it’s got the look and feel of a vintage hoodie while cut appropriately for 2024. Their other basics look great as well.
For $$$, we’ll see that a lot of these brands that make great crewnecks also make great hoodies — here’s the Best Hoodie from Brut. I will not elaborate on why it’s so good or why it’s worth $160 or why the grey color way is so perfect, almost copy + pasted from old hoodies minus the scent & the stains. Similarly, Lady White Co’s Super Weighted Hoodie doesn’t need any sort of write up — it’s worth the $220.
Misc additions:
Flannels: I’d argue that you don’t need a flannel, but you wouldn’t be wrong for getting one. I think if you’re going to buy one, get a good one and keep it for a few years so it ages and wears thin over time; worn in flannels are better than new flannels. I love the Crosscut Flannels from 3Sixteen, but I understand that $245 is a commitment. Filson makes their Alaskan Guide Shirt in a few different colors and although $145, they are worth their price. If you’ve seen any Yellowstone episodes, chances are you’ve seen a Filson flannel or jacket at some point. They’re made to be well-worn. Alternatively, a good vintage flannel is a great option, just make sure you know your measurements before you buy it. Personally, this is an item you can skip and still be fine
.
Cable knit sweater: This is peak fisherman vibes, but once the cold comes you’ll regret not getting one. Yes, they’re chunky. And yes, your girlfriend owns a version of this in tan. But that’s why we’re going to get a good old fashioned NAVY colorway. LL Bean’s Cotton Fisherman Sweater is really the gold standard, and at $119 you can’t find a better example at this price point. The only other contender is the Flint & Tinder Aran Cable Knit that costs $228, or essentially twice as much. It’s good, but I don’t know if it’s twice-the-price-as-LL-Bean good. If it drops in price? Sure. Otherwise stick to the classic.
Shacket: Don’t you dare.
Long sleeve t-shirts: I think for the long sleeves, just look at the short sleeve offerings. I feel like I’ve never really needed a long sleeve? IDK if that’s an insane thing to say but usually a short sleeve + a shirt is the best option?
Thermals: I do think thermals are meant to keep you warm and so they should be good quality. I know you can get a cheaper pair on Amazon, but you can also get a reallllllly good 3Sixteen Thermal Henley from the Self Edge site for $76. They also carry legacy brands that make legendary quality thermals like this Iron Heart IHTL-1301 Thermal that goes for $150. I saw a dude talk about how he’s had his for +5 years; money well spent imo.
Polos: Mannn…if you can avoid polos, avoid polos. If you can’t, then stick to the tried & true offerings from Uniqlo or J Crew for $20 and $80 respectfully. J Crew’s comes with the Classic / Slim / Tall options so you can fine tune the fit, but I don’t know that it’s worth 4x the price of the Uniqlo one.
Are you exhausted? I’m exhausted. But I want to make this as detailed as possible so that you can have a guide for the upcoming months. If I missed any categories, shoot me a message or drop a comment and I’ll update the article with new recs.
NEXT WEEK? PANTS.